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 Post subject: Further report on CEM Flush
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 6:15 pm 
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I forgot to mention this before.

Before I did the CEM Flush: I shoved a clear plastic tub down the dipstick tube until it reached the bottom of the sump an then pushed it along the bottom. On retrieval, there was 1 Cm or so of black gritty tar in the end of the tube.
After the CEM Flush Nothing in the end of the plastic tube.

These engines need an enema now and again.

I think the solvents (Nulon etc) and the detergents (CEM etc) do different jobs. I will probably alternate between them

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
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Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
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Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:28 am 
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Just did a double flush (Wins, Nulon) on the oil, & I've noticed immediately the temp gauge is sitting a smidgen cooler than before at normal operating level. Thats got to be a good thing !.

To early to see if any more power as only driven it 4 k's !! Will update this post over the next few days.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 11:36 am 
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Since the oil flush about a week ago, I've driven close to 700km. Checking the oil on the dipstick it still looks relatively clean, no where near as black as it had been pre CEM flush. Oil pressure is still up and temps are also slightly down, even when running the aircon. Will keep an eye on it and see what happens as the weather gets warmer

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:18 pm 
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since my oil flush a week ago, i have done 900km, the oil is black now but not as black as it would normaly be after 1k km. the engine is running cooler, the oil pressure is higher and the engine is running smoother.
i used the same oil as i use every other change so it has to be the flush making the differance.
i think this will have to be a regular thing now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:02 pm 
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Sounds like people are having good results from the oil flush. I noted that a few are saying oil pressure is up. Be interested to know where the needle gets up to on the gauge. Mine only just goes a fraction past the first mark.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:41 pm 
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I didn't take note of the oil pressure gauge, but I was told expect it to possibly register lower . With less restriction though buildup its possible that the pressure at the sensor will be less, and this sounded reasonable to me at the time as its just like blocked arteries that give you high blood pressure due to the restriction !

Whats everyones thought ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:47 pm 
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That's what I would've thought too Darrie.

My motor got a cleanout when the head was replaced and even after 4000 kms the oil is nowhere near as balck as it used to be.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:00 pm 
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oil pressure at idle sits above the first section a few mm into the second section. It's during normal driving where I'm surprised. The gauge sits about 2/3 the way into the "normal" part of the gauge. Much better compared o what I was seeing before the flush.

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Ex 1994 Surf ssr-x Ltd. 5 speed Manual.

Delivered and loving, 2011 manual Prado D4-D in silver with some fruit.


Prado 150 GXL build thread here:
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:11 pm 
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at idle mine olny just gets into the 'normal' section on the pressure guage, while driving its over 2/3rds of the way along this section. prior to flush it sat slightly higher at idle, but didnt move much once driving. its higher and more responsive whiledriving now

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93 Surf, 1kz-te Auto, SSR-G (i think). 2"body lift, 33" Baja Claws on 16" Rims, Custom tube bar

soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:22 pm 
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Macca81 wrote:
its higher and more responsive whiledriving now


Exactly what I'm experiencing as well.

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Ex 1994 Surf ssr-x Ltd. 5 speed Manual.

Delivered and loving, 2011 manual Prado D4-D in silver with some fruit.


Prado 150 GXL build thread here:
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.ph ... silver-150

3 years. 3 states. Just another mining town.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:01 pm 
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perhaps there was gunk all over the sensor.
If that were the case, then it would not be possible to say that you are running higher pressure now, it could be that the sensor is more accurate and sensitive now than it was pre-flush and your pressure is the same as it always was, it's just being reported to the gauges now.

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 Post subject: Oil Pressure
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 12:43 am 
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I never used to get past the first mark (about 1/4)

At 2.5k revs, with oil hot, it is now about dead centre. This is a major difference.

The oil pump is at the front of the engine, the oil pressure sensor is at the back. I believe a) oil pressure to the sensor is higher as the oilways are clean and offer less resistance and b) the sensor itself is not gunked up.

I truly believe that failure of#4 bearing, cracking between #3 and #4 in the head and overheating could be caused by gunk in the oilways stopping the designed pressure at bearing 4.

At 350k my oil is still clear and stained with soot rather than the old thick black soup. Amazing difference.

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:15 am 
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OK, checked oil pressure gauge this morning. While engine was cold and at idle, needle went just past the first mark. On driving while engine not yet up to temp, needle went to halfway between first and second mark.

When engine got to operating temp, needle dropped back to just over first mark while driving and under first mark at idle.

So I'm assuming that the temperature factors in to the oil pressure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 3:14 pm 
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Surfin Steve wrote:
So I'm assuming that the temperature factors in to the oil pressure.


as oil(like most liquids*) heats and cools, it gets less and more dense respectivly. so pressure is higher as it has to push X volume around when cold, then when it has to pust X volume around when hotter and thinner.
(stick a squeezy bottle of honey in the microwave for 30 secs and it will come outa the bottle very easily.)


*water is the ONLY liquid that doesnt follow this rule. from 4deg-100deg its density decreases progresivly. but at 4deg is when it is most dense, as you move below this mark it actualy becomes less and less dense very very rapidly, untill at 0deg it is in its least dense state. hence why ice floats.


ok thats my tiny contribution to chemistry for everyone. now ill go back to being ignorant of science for a while...

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93 Surf, 1kz-te Auto, SSR-G (i think). 2"body lift, 33" Baja Claws on 16" Rims, Custom tube bar

soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:24 pm 
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Thanks for that.... at least it explains why when you first turn the hot water tap on it gradually slows down and you have to turn the tap on more as it heats up.

More on the flush, it has definitely reduced the smoke ... can't seem to get the vehicle to smoke at all under load !!! even with the fuel enriching chip turned on !

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3 Litre A.R.E. Water Intercooled, RAPID Power Module (dead after 8 years), 4" Suspension Lift Kit, manual hubs, Lockers Front & Rear, Long Travel Shocks, Front/Rear Sway bar disconnects, Long Range Fuel & water tanks, 32" Tyres, Full length Alloy Roof Rack for carrying tinnie. JVC MP3 Player


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 10:04 pm 
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Macca81 wrote:
*water is the ONLY liquid that doesnt follow this rule. from 4deg-100deg its density decreases progresivly. but at 4deg is when it is most dense, as you move below this mark it actualy becomes less and less dense very very rapidly, untill at 0deg it is in its least dense state. hence why ice floats.


Because of the arrangement of H20 molecules, theoretically speaking, you should be able to dive threw ice and you should smack in to the surface of the water. But for some reason, water decided not to follow the conventional rules. That crazy rogue.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:41 pm 
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For those who have experienced higher oil pressure at high revs and the same or lower ad idle, could it be that the gunk was partially blocking the pick up colander of the pump? Once unblocked the flow will increase and at the same revs pressure must go up.
Whatever you do, keep on changing oil at 5000 tops, (4000 if very dirty) and keep on flushing every time. I changed oil Wednesday and used Shell Rimula super 15-40 this time. Done two trips to St Albans and can still not see where the blasted level of the oil is. Tried everything short of painting the stick. Sanding, polishing. Last thing I did was scraping it on the kerb to give it a rough finish to no avail. Still can not see the lever until 2 or 3thousand KM.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:53 pm 
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Darrie wrote:
.... at least it explains why when you first turn the hot water tap on it gradually slows down and you have to turn the tap on more as it heats up.


I think that effect is due to something less sophisticated. The metal in the tap is cold when you turn it on yet quickly heats up and expands. The screw gets longer and closes the tap so you must compensate by loosening it a bit.

I am glad your engine does not smoke anymore just for doing one flush. I am more interested in variations in temperature from those who regularly use to report engine temperatures of over 90 as normal.
With a clean inside, the oil is now able to extract heat from the bottom of the pistons and from the heads since it does not have to contend with the insulating layer of goo and is also able to lose the heat through a clean metallic thin oil sump that cools with the breeze as it should without the warm blanket of caca it use to have.

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Marc KZN185, D-Gas, 265x70 Maxis- 3" mandrel bent exhaust - H.R. T/B - Ryno tray - 36mm- 25 fin alu. Radiator - 71C Thrmstt - Plate & fin trans cooler - Lancruiser 80 series radiator fan - Bilstein shocks - King Springs. Cibie Super Oscars.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 5:24 pm 
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Ok i bit the bullet and got some nulon engine flush and give it a go in my v6 runner,

I had only changed the oil and filter about 300 klms ago but i put a higher viscosity oil in and i wasnt happy the way it heated up a bit more and used a little bit more fuel so time to do it again , put the nulon in run the engine at idle for 15 minutes then dropped the oil, as the oil was only about 300 klms old it still come out as clear as it went in, no discolouring or gunk from the engine flush and the usual 5 litres came out,

My engine has got just a tad under 200 000 klms on it , i have owned it since it had about 70 000 klms on it, ive changed the oil and filter every 5000 klms so maybe thats kept my engine clean as nothing dirty came out with the flush.

I normally run 15w-40 , but got talked into using 15w-50 by the salesperson after looking at the shell lube guide, didnt like it at all in my v6 , engine heated up more than usual above 80klms an hour and used more fuel. I'd like to try the 10w-30 but im a bit concerned it might be a tad too thin, though it will give better fuel economy.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:48 pm 
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Deano70 we never use 15W40 in our V6's here. Only oil we ever run is the 10W30. Sometimes in winter we will run a thinner oil but most all year round we run the 10W30. Its always done a fine job on our vehicles. I couldn't think the climate in Australia would be bad enough for the 6's to not be ok with 10W30.

I did my flush about 1000 kms back. The oil is less full of gunk on the dipstick when I check it and I've noticed the oil pressure stays higher longer than it did before. But I will be doing it again on my next change to see if I get some better results. I'm already putting in a little over 7L when I fill the thing so I think that aspect is fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:22 am 
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We get a longer summer with more hot days above 30 Deg C than you Canadians eh? :D , But certainly not your winters.
I use a synthetic 5w40 (mobil super 3000) & I certainly would if I had a petrol motor It's $50 for 5 litres .
Since using it I've noticed an extra 60 odd kms per tank and it's got a high flashpoint too which means it won't use much between changes.

The advantage of the "5" is easier cold start flow-ability whilst the "40" means it won't thin below a comparative 40 rated oil at running temps.

You could use that all year round here in Oz.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:05 pm 
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im using 20w50 gulf western oil. at 12bucks for 4litres its a good price, and contrary to what the price would suggest, its actually a very high quality oil. AND its a 100% aussie company, and we all like to purchase local products if we can.

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soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
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roof racks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:10 am 
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Wynns sound like they have 2 products that are similar to what you are talking about:

Im assuming its the first one?

WYNN'S SUPREME ENGINE FLUSH

Quote:
Formulated to prepare engines prior to an oil and filter change. Removes and suspends sludge and varnish deposits, flushing and cleaning vital engine components. Protects metal parts from contaminants. PRODUCT NO: 51406


WYNN'S SUPREME ENGINE TUNE-UP

Quote:
Formulated to quieten noisy hydraulic lifters, free sticking oil and compression rings and valves by dissolving solid deposits. Provides increased protection against friction and wear. PRODUCT NO: 51123


Nulon make life real easy:

Nulon Engine Oil Flush
Quote:

is formulated to dissolve and dislodge harmful sludge, dirt, varnish and other contaminants that accumulate within an engine's lubrication system during normal operation.

Although modern engines are cleaner from an environmental aspect, all the pollutants of engine combustion previously released to the atmosphere are now recirculated within the engine. Consequently, lubricating oils have a much more difficult task in cleaning and suspending all of these additional contaminants.

When added to the crankcase oil prior to an oil and filter change, Nulon Engine Oil Flush greatly assists in ridding the engine of potentially damaging contaminants. Nulon Engine Oil Flush also frees sticky valves and hydraulic lifters. Thermal efficiency of the engine is also improved by ridding the engine of insulating sludge build-up. EOF provides a cleaner environment for fresh oil to operate, so the detergent dispersant and anti-oxidant additives in the new oil are not depleted as quickly.


Although they do also have:

Nulon Diesel Engine Treatment

Quote:
has been formulated to cater specifically to the demands of today's high-performance diesel-powered engines. Extended oil change intervals, heavier loads, turbo-chargers and higher sustained speed all place enormous strains on today's diesel engines. Modern lubricants have to work harder than ever before to maintain a lubricating film of oil between wearing parts.

When added to conventional lubricants on a regular basis Nulon HP will offer the highest degree of protection available for all forms of diesel-powered machinery. HP has been designed with the large fleet operator in mind. It is economical and easy to use.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:24 pm 
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EndoLux wrote:
Wynns sound like they have 2 products that are similar to what you are talking about:

Im assuming its the first one?

WYNN'S SUPREME ENGINE FLUSH

Quote:
Formulated to prepare engines prior to an oil and filter change. Removes and suspends sludge and varnish deposits, flushing and cleaning vital engine components. Protects metal parts from contaminants. PRODUCT NO: 51406


WYNN'S SUPREME ENGINE TUNE-UP

Quote:
Formulated to quieten noisy hydraulic lifters, free sticking oil and compression rings and valves by dissolving solid deposits. Provides increased protection against friction and wear. PRODUCT NO: 51123


Nulon make life real easy:

Nulon Engine Oil Flush
Quote:

is formulated to dissolve and dislodge harmful sludge, dirt, varnish and other contaminants that accumulate within an engine's lubrication system during normal operation.

Although modern engines are cleaner from an environmental aspect, all the pollutants of engine combustion previously released to the atmosphere are now recirculated within the engine. Consequently, lubricating oils have a much more difficult task in cleaning and suspending all of these additional contaminants.

When added to the crankcase oil prior to an oil and filter change, Nulon Engine Oil Flush greatly assists in ridding the engine of potentially damaging contaminants. Nulon Engine Oil Flush also frees sticky valves and hydraulic lifters. Thermal efficiency of the engine is also improved by ridding the engine of insulating sludge build-up. EOF provides a cleaner environment for fresh oil to operate, so the detergent dispersant and anti-oxidant additives in the new oil are not depleted as quickly.


Although they do also have:

Nulon Diesel Engine Treatment

Quote:
has been formulated to cater specifically to the demands of today's high-performance diesel-powered engines. Extended oil change intervals, heavier loads, turbo-chargers and higher sustained speed all place enormous strains on today's diesel engines. Modern lubricants have to work harder than ever before to maintain a lubricating film of oil between wearing parts.

When added to conventional lubricants on a regular basis Nulon HP will offer the highest degree of protection available for all forms of diesel-powered machinery. HP has been designed with the large fleet operator in mind. It is economical and easy to use.


the first wynns one is a flush like mentioned in this thread.
the 2nd wynns is an additive that stays in your oil, from the moment you put fresh stuff in, till the moment you drop it at your next oil change(i believe this merely hides problems in your engine, not fixes them)
the first nulon is the one mentioned several times in this thread, its the one i used as did many others.
the 2nd nulon is the same as the 2nd wynns, my thoughts regarding its use remain the same.

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93 Surf, 1kz-te Auto, SSR-G (i think). 2"body lift, 33" Baja Claws on 16" Rims, Custom tube bar

soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
tweaked torsion bars
roof racks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:33 pm 
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Winn has in fact two engine oil flush. One is the one you buy at Peps, Repco, Supercheap, petrol stations etc.
The second one has a different colour label (purple if I remember correctly, 5 years ago anyway) and it reads something on the line of "only for mechanics not to be sold to the public" or words to that effect.
Supposedly stronger, I am told it is just a promotional gimmick since the one "only for mechanics" give them some sort of points for each bottle they use and some form of reward system.

I used all three of the products, both Winn and the only Nulon available.
I could not see any difference between the two Winn products as expected, yet one day I could not find Winn and bought Nulon and never looked back. The difference in the amount of rubbish Nulon dislodges is remarkable.

I would like to try the other product you mention, what is it? CEM?
Yet only get blank looks when I go to Repco or Supercheap.

As for Nulon Diesel oil treatment, for what I understand, it is a suspension of fine teflon particles that reduce friction between moving parts.
Rivers of ink and trillions of pixels have been used to write about oil additives.
Solid additives like Graphite, Molibdene Bisulfite and now Teflon work admirably well yet have one draw back. When used in excess they can plug oil conduit. In fact I have seen one boat engine with camshaft oil conduit plugged with Molikote.

The owner thought more is better.
It wasn't.

I use Nulon oil treatment, not because I can actualy see it doing anything at all since for that I would have to dismatle the engine, take measurments, put it back together, use it for a year, dismatle again and measure again, whilst running another engine in similar conditions without the additive for comparison, then hope I got it all right and then say...Wow it works!

I use it just because I like to think it is in there and it may even be good for the engine.
Sort of use it "on faith" and always just under the recommended amount.

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Marc KZN185, D-Gas, 265x70 Maxis- 3" mandrel bent exhaust - H.R. T/B - Ryno tray - 36mm- 25 fin alu. Radiator - 71C Thrmstt - Plate & fin trans cooler - Lancruiser 80 series radiator fan - Bilstein shocks - King Springs. Cibie Super Oscars.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:38 pm 
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CEM stands for cost effective maintenance and is based in QLD. Their web site is www.costeffective.com.au. They make all sorts of additives as you will see on their site. If every thing they say is true it must be pretty good stuff.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:44 pm 
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Oh yeah, I got around to doing this last week.
I ran the flush before I dumped the oil and pulled out about 8 litres.
Then I put in 4L of the cheapest oil I could find and ran through some more flush. This time I pulled out 5 litres.

Engine idles nicer, runs smoother, I'm not sure if it is any cooler though as I replaced the thermostat at the same time. No idea if it has improved economy though because my kilometres stopped clicking over on the weekend.

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 Post subject: Flushes
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:46 pm 
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Location: Sydney
Nulon do a "workshop only" flush. Deadly stuff if you can get your hands on it. The reason why it is workshop only is that it contains a warning that it dislodges so much sludge and varnish that there is a risk that the oil pickup can be blocked and the mechanic has to use his discretion if using it on a very dirty engine. In other words, in the hands of an amateur it could seize an engine.

The CEM is only available from the website. I have used the Nulon workshop grade flush and the CEM. The CEM is in a league of its own.

Basically - the CEM every 100,000 or once off - it involves two oil changes, one for fresh oil for the flush itself and the second for the real oil and filter change, and the Nulon (ordinary grade) before every 5000 oil change.

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'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject: Re: Flushes
PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 11:51 pm 
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Ratty wrote:
Nulon do a "workshop only" flush. Deadly stuff if you can get your hands on it. The reason why it is workshop only is that it contains a warning that it dislodges so much sludge and varnish that there is a risk that the oil pickup can be blocked and the mechanic has to use his discretion if using it on a very dirty engine. In other words, in the hands of an amateur it could seize an engine.


I used the Nulon "Workshop Only" flush in my Hilux today. Really easy to get your hands on. I was expecting it to have greater warnings on the bottle though.

5L came out, no more then usual.
It does idle much smoother and does not tick/display oil pressure light on start up. I am however worried about the slight ticking sound coming from the engine. I was hoping the flush might have cured it but it's still there. Might be a timing problem?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:38 am 
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Hi,

Was reading over this thread and thought it would be appropriate to reply. The product we sell for Engine flushes is "Flushing Oil Concentrate" and it is designed to remove the sludge from the sump and behind the piston rings. As this is a detergent based product there is no harm to the engine.

I am quite happy to answer any questions or queries about any products we sell via the forums, email or phone.

Cheers,
Dennison Conradi
Sales Manager, Cost Effective Maintenance
www.costeffective.com.au
sales@costeffective.com.au
(07) 3376 6188


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 3:46 pm 
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Cost Effective Maintenanc wrote:
Hi,

Was reading over this thread and thought it would be appropriate to reply. The product we sell for Engine flushes is "Flushing Oil Concentrate" and it is designed to remove the sludge from the sump and behind the piston rings. As this is a detergent based product there is no harm to the engine.

I am quite happy to answer any questions or queries about any products we sell via the forums, email or phone.

Cheers,
Dennison Conradi
Sales Manager, Cost Effective Maintenance
www.costeffective.com.au
sales@costeffective.com.au
(07) 3376 6188



what are your thoughts on giving a free trial of your product to forum members?? :D

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93 Surf, 1kz-te Auto, SSR-G (i think). 2"body lift, 33" Baja Claws on 16" Rims, Custom tube bar

soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
tweaked torsion bars
roof racks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 6:20 pm 
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Quote:
I am quite happy to answer any questions or queries about any products we sell via the forums, email or phone.


I recently bought a KZN130 Surf (thanks to the info available on this great site :D ) that I want to convert to running on veg oil.

Do you have a product that is capable of stripping a fuel tank and lines (up to the filter) of the residual diesel crap fast ?

The reason I ask is that it is well known to expect to have to change fuel filters a lot after converting until the residue has gone and it would be great to only have to do it once or twice.


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 Post subject: Diesel plaque
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 6:26 pm 
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Been there, done that. The easiest way to handle the problem is to get 3 in-line fuel filters (the cheap $3 ones) and install one of them. When it gets clogged, change it for another one, when that gets clogged, change it again. You probably won't need more than 3 of them before the system is cleaned out.

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water injection
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 Post subject: re: Diesel plaque
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 6:47 pm 
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geez, that was quick. Thanks for your fast reply Terry.

I'll do that.

Did you run Bio, SVO or a different combo ?

What were your experiences running veg in a Surf ?

Even though petrol is fast going down in price lately, diesel ain't much at all.
Maybe (if possible and subject to admin approval), do you think it worthwhile to start a seperate thread or sticky on running alternative fuels in a Surf ?

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 Post subject: Biodiesel
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:15 pm 
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I've been running various blends of biodiesel, petrol diesel, vegetable oil, used motor oil, Jet A, kerosine and ATF for 8 years.

Once your tank is cleaned out, it's cleaned out. Use the cheap in-line filters as disposable filters to save your expensive Toyota filter.

I presently like to use high conversion tallow biodiesel with 33% used vegetable oil blended in. Cheap, runs good and plenty of lubricity. I use the fats off the bottom of the settling tanks to make the high conversion bioidiesel, then blend in the vegetable oil during the pre-wash cycle. That takes out most, if not all, the FFA from the relatively good used vegetable oil I get.

Now that it is warming up I might bump up the vegetable oil to 50%. I prefer a biodiesel blend with my vegetable oil rather than petrol diesel. The higher cetane of the biodiesel gives a cleaner burn.

I try to always run at least 20% biodiesel as it gives a better start, burn and lubricity.

_________________
LN85 with 2LT engine
Tweaked boost compensator
3L cam
water injection
ball-check boost controller
Limited slip differential (4.56)
Stock 185/14 front tyre
15" Ford rim with 195s on the back
4-core radiator w/ Landcrusier fan
Stock exhaust w/ straight through muffler
Cheapest Monroe shocks


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 Post subject: alternatives
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Location: NSW
nice !

I wish I had the space, time and experience to make decent bio like you do.....(hopefully soon if house prices keep going down a bit more).

For the interim, I've got a rear mounted spare and space enough for a separate tank under the back for ((hopefully) SVO, WVO) or for the nasty bio blends I'll unfortunately, probably make until I get it right. I want to keep the normal tank for shutdown and startup km's. or when I have to run straiaght dieso.

I'm in Sydney too now, but originally from QLD. Do you think temps here get warm enough for >50% SVO over summer ?

I guess I'm a little paranoid with 1KZ-TE fuel pump reco's costing $$$$$'s.

Thanks for your valuable info...please keep it coming.


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 Post subject: Denso pump
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:02 pm 
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I don't know anything about the 1KZ-TE pump, so I can't offer informed advice. I use the mechanical pump for the 2.4 that is based on the Bosch VE pump (like for the Mercedes Benz). That pump will take all sorts of mixtures without a hickup.

_________________
LN85 with 2LT engine
Tweaked boost compensator
3L cam
water injection
ball-check boost controller
Limited slip differential (4.56)
Stock 185/14 front tyre
15" Ford rim with 195s on the back
4-core radiator w/ Landcrusier fan
Stock exhaust w/ straight through muffler
Cheapest Monroe shocks


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 Post subject: Denso....different kettle of fish
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:41 pm 
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no worries Terry.

thankyou, you've given me more incentive to give it a go with the Denso anyway.

there's scant info on the net about going bio (or especially SVO, WVO) with the 1KZ-TE (or denso) after many km's.
The few I can find say it is definitely do-able, but that not much on what happens with pump seals or after long term use.

i'll post any future experiences here if anyones interested.

it will be a different thread (sorry for going off-topic here).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:45 pm 
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i certainly hope that the 1kz pumps can handle it... im about to start on bio (just got back from my mates where we made the cone for the bottom of our 44) and the last thing i want is to reco a pump...

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93 Surf, 1kz-te Auto, SSR-G (i think). 2"body lift, 33" Baja Claws on 16" Rims, Custom tube bar

soon to have...

bj spacers
80's rear coils
tweaked torsion bars
roof racks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 6:33 am 
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I have been running my 1KZTE pump on 100% biodiesel for about 3 years and haven't had any problems.

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:11 am 
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Macca81 wrote:
what are your thoughts on giving a free trial of your product to forum members?? :D


If I did that I would be in the bad books with the boss. However i can offer a 10% discount to forum members if the order is done over the phone.:)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:15 am 
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rastus wrote:

I recently bought a KZN130 Surf (thanks to the info available on this great site :D ) that I want to convert to running on veg oil.

Do you have a product that is capable of stripping a fuel tank and lines (up to the filter) of the residual diesel crap fast ?

The reason I ask is that it is well known to expect to have to change fuel filters a lot after converting until the residue has gone and it would be great to only have to do it once or twice.


If your still having problems with the residue I would suggest Cleanpower. Its basically designed to keep the fuel lines and injectors clean.


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 Post subject: Cost Effective Maintenance
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:54 am 
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Guys - I really dont like giving commercial recommendations as I dont want to be be flamed and I dont have anything but my own experience to go on but I just want to to honestly state how impressed I was with the CEM Flush and Fuel additive. I have posted it all on this thread but to recap:

I have always been a fanatic about keeping the oilways etc clean and have always flushed with either Nulon or Transmission Fluid. I though my engine was pretty clean.
I gave the CEM flush a go. This was the "big dose" treatment involving fresh oil and a "lot" of the flush to clean the engine out before the real oil and filter change.
I got a FULL LITER + of varnish and sludge out. Blew me away.
Now have lower temps, higher oil pressure and lower consumption.

A neighbor, an old bloke like me and a good mechanic said "Your motor sounds great - have you rebuilt it"? .

Just stating the facts as they apply to me. If ever I buy another Surf (or any other diesel) the first thing I will do is CEM it.

PS: I have no connection at all with CEM. The only reason I write this is that so many Surfers get the expense of big end failure, cracked head, overheating etc and this is a Toyota engine! I think the underlying problem for many of us is 2+ litres of accumulated sludge and varnish.

_________________
'92 LN130 / 2.4 LTE / SSR-X / Auto
Added:
Rhino Tracks & Basket/ 31" Cooper ST's/ Tough Dog 15mm Coils/Tough Dog 40mm Foam Cell Shocks/Red Low Oil Pressure Lamp/Amber Temp over 92 Lamp/Green Coverter Locked Up Lamp/By Pass Filter/ Battery isolator/Temp Guage Mod
Replaced:
Injectors, Fuel Pump, Alternator, Starter, Condensor Fan


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 Post subject: Flush
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:26 pm 
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When I first bought my surf I flushed the engine with CEM and then put a new cheap oil inside then a good diesel oil. The filter was almost blocked, so there was obviously a lotta crap inside the engine, pressure was very low, put new oil and sump in and the difference was pretty good. After replacing the head when I first bought the lux I also cleaned out the intake manifold after the odo was reading an alleged 50'000 kms. It was almost blocked. Since then have had no issues whatsoever with the car in the last 5 and a half years.

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1992 HILUX SURF 2.4 AUTO, NISSAN BONNET SCOOP, r 32 SKYLINE INTERCOOLER WITH WATER SPRAY, TURBO SMART BOOST ADJUSTER, LONG RANGER 60L TANK, 31x10x 15 ALL TERRAINS BFG BOSS STEREO, 2.5 INCH EXHAUST, TURBO TIMER, BOOST ADJUSTER.METALLIC MAROON. ROOF LIGHTS

SURF NOW FOR SALE> SELLING DUE TO OTHER INTERESTS, SEE FOR SALE SECTION.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Sorry Surf Lover, I can't quite figure out what you are saying:
"put a new cheap oil inside then a good diesel oil" and "put new oil and sump in and the difference was pretty good." Then, " also cleaned out the intake manifold after the odo was reading an alleged 50'000 kms. It was almost blocked." I can't quite work out what all that means. It might very well be me, but is anybody else having trouble with this?

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 5:49 pm 
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I think what he's saying is that he uses a cheap oil after a flush to remove any remaining "crap" and not ruin his nice new oil and filter. Which is something I normally do after a head gasket repair where the oil has turned to "custard" as a result of the failure.

Inlet manifolds fill up with carbon from the EGR restricting flow of air into the engine and causing a loss of performance. The fix is to clean the manifold out (some Dealership workshops call this an "Induction Service") and delete the EGR.

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Petrol and Diesel Mechanic by trade

Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
His junior... Buzz Lightyear electric Quad
Mr Dog..Any car with door open


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 Post subject: Flush
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Exactly what I mean. One thing with the intake manifold once again I was amazed at how much gunk, old oil emissions were inside it. I would estimate there was about a 1cm gap left for the air to go through the intake and had just bought the car! Went a lot better after it was cleaned out.

The other half has a 92 model Suzuki Swift which was only used to travel to work, 1 km in the mornings and back, never used on long trips. After 8 years of doing short trips the sump was loaded with oil sludge, and I believe this caused the oil pump to fail. Also was serviced regularly so it was not old oil doing it.

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1992 HILUX SURF 2.4 AUTO, NISSAN BONNET SCOOP, r 32 SKYLINE INTERCOOLER WITH WATER SPRAY, TURBO SMART BOOST ADJUSTER, LONG RANGER 60L TANK, 31x10x 15 ALL TERRAINS BFG BOSS STEREO, 2.5 INCH EXHAUST, TURBO TIMER, BOOST ADJUSTER.METALLIC MAROON. ROOF LIGHTS

SURF NOW FOR SALE> SELLING DUE TO OTHER INTERESTS, SEE FOR SALE SECTION.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:21 pm 
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Okay, got all that (thanks), but how did you clean out the intake manifold? Was it by removal and manual scraping etc., or did you use some sort of solvent and ran the engine to clean it?

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'93 Maroon KZN-130 SSR-X 3LTD 1KZTE , Rear ARB Locker, Safari Snorkel, Nite Stalker 200 Spots, Bull/Tow Bars/Side Steps, Tints, HiClones
(2 ), Pirelli Scorpions (31X10.50R15LT), Uniden UH088, Polybag rear shocks, Rhino racks, etc.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:10 pm 
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You are best to remove the manifold and clean it out using carby clean or brake clean scraping the worst out first. I wouldn't advise trying to do this with the engine running, diesels tend not to like it

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Petrol and Diesel Mechanic by trade

Hers 1992 SSR-X 2door wide body
His. 1990 UZN130 SSR Limited. 1UZ-FE, 5 speed manual, Updated to SSR-G spec
Daughters car 1982 RN41 hilux ute with Surf bits
His junior... Buzz Lightyear electric Quad
Mr Dog..Any car with door open


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:38 pm 
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I removed my intake manifold and scraped it out and cleaned it with a varsol gun. This is what it looked like inside.
Image
Image
Mine has just over 320000kms on it. But I got rid the EGR and it seemed to help it a bit with running smoother. At least all that gunk is gone.

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82 Toyota 4x4 Pickup 22R 5 speed.
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