Guage Install (2.4LT)
Article: Rob.D Photos: Rob.D
- Wire Cutters
- Stanley Knife
- Wire Strippers
- Small Phillips Head screwdriver
- Large Phillips Head screwdriver
- Scribe or Small flat blade screwdriver
- 10m roll of thin gauge Black wire
- 10m roll of thin gauge Red wire
- 4 pairs of Male/Female terminals... i used round push in ones
- 3m of Cable Conduit... purchased from Whitworths Marine
Wiring can be purchased by the metre from Whitworths for $99c, i used all of the 5m i bought BUT there was a bit of wastage, and i also wired the water temp as well which used a fair whack. Shop around for the cable conduit... Supercheap Auto wanted $30 for a pack of 10m length.
step is to locate the hoses for vaccum/boost. As you lift the bonnet and
stand in front, there is a small round filter type thing mounted to the
throttle body. This will have a large round hose from the throttle body
that curves at 90 degrees (see A below). This is one option for putting
the T-Piece in but i used the smaller one coming out of the top (See B).
The next best option BEFORE
cutting anything to mount the Tpiece is to run the supplied pressure hose.
The route i chose is displayed below.
The next best option BEFORE cutting anything to mount the Tpiece is to run the supplied pressure hose. The route i chose is displayed below.
my Surf, an automatic 2.4 Injected, there was a hole in the firewall already
where 2 cables already ran through. I used this for running my pressure
hose as it came in on the drivers side just under the dash. From there you
can run it past the fuse box (above it) and there is a small gap in the
plastic panel where i ran it up to above the dash. The hole in the firewall
is displayed below.
This is where it comes into the car. (next to the yellow wire)
you know this will fit for mounting the gauge in the corner out of the way,
you can put the T-Piece in. The small hose between the throttle body and
the Turbo Pressure Sensor has no clamps on it and easily pulls off. I marked
out about 2" down the hose from the filter and cut here. For putting
the tube on, it is a tight fit but i filled a coffee cup with boiling water
and soaked the ends in the hot water to soften it up. You can also use a
pair of pliers to twist it on.
The gauge has 2 small wires going into a small light globe. Positive and Negative. I used some thin gauge wire and just twisting and taping this together i ran it down the side of the dash where the boost tube rand and across the car under the dash. I simply zip tied this to the harness.
For the lighting, you have the option of tapping into the cigarette lighter light, or my ash tray had a light. Nobody i know needs a lit ash tray, so i removed that light, and put terminals on the end and used this for the lighting. Worked a treat for me.
Now you can mount the cup. You can try double sided tape, but i found self tappers into the A pillar worked fine. The best way is to do a dummy fit first, and with a scribe, mark where the bracket will go. Self tapper the bracked down then mount the clamp for the cup on it.
Install the gauge into the cup and tighten everything up once you have it at the right angle and so on... For the wiring and Boost tube, the cup i bought had a large hole with a grommet in it. I used this which made things really easy to just poke all the cables through.
Now you should be ready to trial start it... for some reason when i started it the first time and ran it, nothing was showing with throttle and it actually stalled on me... wierd. So i shut it down, restarted and went for a drive round the block and it worked a treat.
In this pic you should be
able to see the conduit where it runs through the firewall.
In this pic you should be able to see the conduit where it runs through the firewall.
with the conduit where you can see it runs all the way to the T-Piece. Note
the extra part that runs out after the tube, this is the signal wire for
the water temp gauge.
finished product with the water temp gauge above it...