Turbo Removal - Installation
Article: Dan Birch Photos:Dan Birch

As these vehicles are second hand and have an unknonw history it is hard to tell just what sort of condition it is in internally.
My vehicle when purchased was in what i saw great condition (mechanicaly) in stock form. Unfortunalty i got the modification
bug and started strapping on accesorise. after this i decided the surf needed some more power to help push it all along. So
along i went to Brisbane Tuning and Turbo centre who gave me a power up which included a 2.5" exhaust, free flow muffler
and increased my turbo boost to 11psi from stock 7psi. A Big increase indeed. but in doing this showed their was a hidden
problem with my turbocharger unit which was not visible at lower psi. It would have eventually become visible, but due to
the extra stress it was put under it did so more quickly.

CT20 - Usuall Repair Bill - $500 - $1000 depending on problem.

The task : Now toyota wouldn't make this easy for us would they...

Tools: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm spanners. + some skin on the knuckles !!
Time Taken: 3-5 Hours
Difficulty: 3.5 (Fairly fiddly)

A schematic diagram of the turbo assembly


Step 1: Preparing the Engine Bay

Firstly remove the air ducting form the air cleaner to the turbo inlet. This will give you a lot more
space to work with. It is recomended to disconet the negative battery terminal during any mechanical
repairs. especially in EFI equipped surfs.


Step 2: Removing the Manifolds

Make sure to cover up the inlet manifold so as dirt does not get in there, or you don't loose anything
down there.

Then remove the tubing from the turbo to the inlet manifold
  Step 3: Removing the Outer Parts

Next step was to remove the heat shielding aroung the turbo unit, there were 4 bolts alltogehter and this
is the easiest part of the job.
Onced removed you can now start disconecting the turbo charger. Firstly i removed the cooling pipes
from the unit,
And tucked them out of the way (wrapped in cloth as the system was still full of coolent, so you may loose some
You can remove this part of the tubing if you wish, but it is easier to keep it all together.

Step 4:Watch for spills.

The cooling inlet/outler in the turbo will have some coolent inside it - soak this up with some tissue as this is corrosive if dripped on anything. When i removed a part i made sure to replace the bolts back onto the unit where that part was so not to get them mixed up.

Step 5: Removing Exhaust Manifold

Next remove the exhuast manifold at the rear of the turbo. This is done using a 12mm spanner and there are 4 bolts alltogheter. It is recomended that you loosen or removethe 14mm bolts holding the turbo unit to the exhaust manifold on the engine side bfore hand - so as to nor cause damage or stress to any part of the unit.

Step 6: Removing the Turbo

Once the exhaust side is off the only tricky bit is to remove the oil lines into and out of the turbo. This is located directly underneath the turbocahrge and is a real pain to do. The left hand side bolt is easy to remove as you have space, the iner bolt is just above the heatshield for the ehxuast. So it is very tight in there and a knuckle breaker !!
do this with caution though as these tubes are the important ones.

Once these are loosened and the bolts reomved the whole unit can be removed easily in one upward pull.

Step 7: Checking Tubing

Here you can see the turbo removed. Make sure nothing falls into the outlet of the exhaust (engine side) and into the oil tubing which is hanging in the middle of the image. This is a good chance to check everything is all ok around this area and if you want
a good clean. Also check the oil return tubing is still ok and not brittle.

The engine bay certanitly looks bear without the turbo unit !!

The newer turbo unit needed some parts transferring off the old unit which was done easily. The installtion is very easy
compared to uninstalling the unit. Make sure you use some exhaust cement on both sides of the turbo charger when re-
assembling. Tighten all bolts very well ! Make sure -as much as a pain it is- that the oil lines into and out of the turbo are
extremely tight as you don't want to loose oi pressure here.

Once it is all back in place check the radiator coolent level and if needs be top up as required.

then take it for a drive - you may notice some abnormal smoke which could be due to the exhuast cement or oil in the system
this is just it burning off. The newer unit had a much healthier sound to it and much more responsive. Check for leaks when you
return - keep in eye on oil level over the next week or so to check the turbo charger is in good working order.